Day 1: Cachora to Chiquisca Camp The colectivo dropped me in Cachora's dusty plaza at 7am. The trailhead starts at 2,900m and immediately begins the punishing descent into the Apurímac canyon – 1,500 meters down over 12 kilometers. By noon I'd passed through Capuliyoc viewpoint where I got my first glimpse of Choquequirao across the canyon, impossibly distant. Made camp at Chiquisca (1,900m) as the sun set behind the ridge. Day 2: Chiquisca to Choquequirao The brutal day. Down another 400m to the Apurímac River at Playa Rosalina, then the relentless climb begins – 1,500m of elevation gain over 8km. The trail switchbacks through cloud forest, getting steeper as you climb. At Marampata (2,850m) I stopped for lunch and stared at the ruins finally visible above. The final push to the site (3,050m) took everything I had. Made camp at the small clearing as the fog rolled in. Day 3: Exploring Choquequirao I had the ruins almost entirely to myself. Started at dawn in the Main Plaza, watching the mist burn off to reveal the surrounding peaks. Spent hours at the Llama Terraces on the eastern slope – white stone llamas inlaid into the agricultural terraces, visible only from certain angles. The Priests' House, the Ushnu platform, the ceremonial fountains – every sector revealed new details. Only 30% of the site is excavated; the forest is slowly being pushed back to reveal more. Day 4: Return to Cachora The reverse journey. Down to Playa Rosalina, across the bridge, then the soul-crushing climb back to Cachora. My knees were destroyed, but I couldn't stop smiling. Caught an evening colectivo to Cusco, dreaming of the Vilcabamba traverse for next time.